Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Whiteness

Before I begin, I must warn you that I will be making a number of generalizations in this post, and I will emphasize here that they are just that: generalizations; meaning, they do not apply to everyone.

I, like many other Americans, would like to believe we live in a post-racial society, where we are beyond discriminating or favoring people based on their ethnicity. Although the United States has made significant strides in the past century, I believe we still have a long way to go before we may consider ourselves "post-racial." Also, if I am to be successful in anthropology, it's time I become realistic about this social issue. Especially, since, I seem to be on the receiving end of a unique form of racism...

The day I conducted interviews in East Pokot, I received a wide variety of reactions to my presence from children who had never seen (but perhaps had heard about) white people. They would scream, cry, giggle, wave, hide behind their mothers or friends, or simply stand with their jaw dropped (one kid even dropped what he was carrying). It was not hard to notice that as we traveled farther away from Nairobi, the number of white people decreased. Here, in Kapenguria, I have seen only one other white person.

Reactions are not limited to children. Adults will also stare, or make comments about the "mzungu" (foreigner) in Swahili. I usually don't ask for a translation, but yesterday, Nelly told me one man could not believe I was carrying water on my head from the river along with her. Even Michael's family seems astounded when I insist on hand washing my own laundry, or bathing with a bucket of cold water like they do, rather than use Michael's connections at a nearby hotel to have hot water sprinkle from a faucet over my head.

There is so much attached to this concept of whiteness, another factor being wealth.

I was so beside myself the other day about this, that I called my friend and fellow board member, Nathan, who has visited Kenya a few times. He helped me see things a bit better from the Kenyan perspective. For instance, many people in Kenya are in "survival mode," living one day at a time, doing what they can to put food in their stomachs. As a person from the United States, I am perceived as a bottomless piggy bank.

Also, only a few people understand the concept of saving. Nathan advised me to not even try to explain what a budget or savings account is, because many of the people who are in survival mode will not understand how it is that I have this money but do not use it right now, in the present, for my needs (and their needs). They are opportunistic, rather than futuristic, doing the most they can do today to survive for as long as possible, because it is unknown what tomorrow will bring or not bring.

Yesterday was the first day I was explicitly asked for money or things by people who are more than strangers, who are friends of Michael's. One person asked for 100 shillings (about $1.50) to buy soap. Later, a girl knocked on the door of my apartment and asked if I could "assist her with drinking water" (I eventually gathered that she was asking to tap my supply of clean, store bought, bottled water). Then, at dinner, a man asked me "how many monies did it take for [me] to go to America from Nairobi?" and then if I would buy him a plane ticket to America.

In addition, I've conducted two interviews today that pleaded with me to support Daylight and tell people about it, because they realize education is the future and the way out of poverty, not understanding that I'm actually on their side, as a Daylight board member, and that my purpose on that board is to bring in more people to support Daylight. It's very exhausting and discouraging, as I feel I must explain or defend myself. Not to mention this all strays away from the main questions of my interview.

In general, it is hard for me to say no to people, but I know I cannot help everyone; my funds are limited too. It is still so frustrating to be in the midst of all this poverty and do nothing. I appreciate your thoughts and prayers as I experience these new challenges.

On a positive note! (I know I've been highlighting the negative a lot lately.)

I also visited Daylight Center and School yesterday. This truly was the highlight and joy of my day (even though I could not completely escape this issue of whiteness there either). Here are some pictures:

Michael suggested I bring candy to ensure no one would run away or cry!

Handing out soap to some very curious kids.

I assisted the kitchen staff by passing out porridge. You can see this kid still isn't sure about me!

High five! This started as a result of one kid coming up to me and waving at me only two inches away. So, I gave her a high five while saying "high five!" Well, then this happened...each of the kids wanted about 20 high fives. At another point in the day, they came running up to me, screaming "Hi Fi, Hi Fi!"

Visiting a classroom reviewing pronunciation of English vowel sounds.

10 comments:

  1. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  2. Sorry for the technical glitch from previous attempt to post...
    I can see why visiting the school was the highlight and joy ! What precious little faces!!
    Love, Mom

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  3. Rachel,

    These are very worthwhile experiences. I have experienced this many times before in my life, travels and work. There are many assumptions and curiosities to "different"; from childlike wonder, to fear, to uninformed and projected stereotypes and assumptions. You are educating through your actions - keep it up.

    Kevin

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  4. I can very much relate! While foreigners are much more common here in Manila if you get much off the main roads the amount of white people around drops considerably. We have to deal with a lot of the same things you're talking about...Know of any good books on the subject? I could use some tangible ideas and thoughts about the subject!

    Erin Castagna

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  5. I love hearing about your experiences. Its so important to understand how you are being viewed and how to help transform people's lives through education.

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  6. This is incredible. It sounds like you have some really tricky things to work through. I imagine it would be so difficult to say no to people, especially when they think you are an endless well of wealth.

    Keep it up Rachel! You are inspiring!

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  7. Dear Rachel,

    You (and Luke!) are always in our prayers. I think the hardest part of sorting through these issues you describe is not shutting down about it all because it's too overwhelming. You are doing the hard work needed. Just think, you are making a difference - in the long term - which is the best kind.

    Love, Anne-Marie

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  8. Hi Rachel,

    You are learning good things. Being thrust into a cultural role is uncomfortable especially since some of the characteristics you are being assigned are exactly those you would like to escape. Yet you represent so much wealth and privilege to those with whom you serving. As they begin to get to know you past the generalizations, as a person, this will get better. You won't just be seen as the wealthy, powerful woman from America. You will be see as Rachel, a person who is also wealthy and powerful, but a real person. It will take time.

    Be brave and stay in there.

    Blessings.

    Harley

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  9. Hello from Cousin Kathy in Minnesota!
    I did not know about your trip until your Aunt Ruthie posted it on Facebook. Wow! Royce has two grandchildren in Africa?! What are the chances of that? Your charity work and academic work both sound very interesting. I will be anxious to hear more about it when you return to visit your parents. Best wishes to you and your new friends in Kenya!
    Kathy Coyle, Detroit Lakes, MN.

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  10. I must say, Rachel has done so well out here. Already she has made one trip to and through East Pokot. A trip billed as one of the toughest. In fact around the same time Rachel was travelling through that area, some journalists from Nairobi were also in the area to carry out a survey. And when they returned to the capital, Nairobi, they made a report of their visit to East Pokot titled “ Pokot men abandon wives to care of animals” - and you can read it in full on this link: http://www.standardmedia.co.ke/InsidePage.php?id=2000030024&cid=4&ttl=Pokot%20men%20abandon%20wives%20to%20take%20care%20of%20animals

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