Sunday, February 20, 2011

Top 10

Well, I am finally in Kapenguria. We did end up staying one more night in East Pokot because an amazing, last minute opportunity sprang up on Saturday morning for us to go visit the village center and surrounding watering stations where the Pokot pastoralists water their goats and camels. Big, huge step with my anthropological research as a result. I wasn't expecting to interact with these herders until later on in my trip. Last night, we stayed again at Michael's friend's home, and it was the first night I've been able to sleep without interruption.

Without further ado, as promised, here are some photos taken between Friday (when we left Nairobi) and today (just before reaching Kapenguria).

Kenyans do love their soccer...

Fueling up the truck (by rocking it!) in order to fill it up as much as possible for the long road ahead.

Yeah, it's really hot.

Michael told the pastoralists that I am from the Eagle clan (since the Bald Eagle is the U.S.'s national bird). A lot of people took him seriously. One woman there was from the real Eagle clan of the Pokot. "We are sisters!" she said and gave me two big hugs.

The can I am holding was one of the containers used to scoop up water
from the wells and water the goats and camels. The can is from the U.S.
and originally held nourishing, vitamin-enriched vegetable meal.

Interviewing a former Pokot warrior.

This was apparently this Pokot warrior's first ever Coca Cola.

Michael and Peter in the Minnesota gear I brought them.

Peter sitting on a mass grave and Pokot memorial. In the 1950s, many people were killed after the British commissioner and army opened machine gun fire on a community of recent converts to African Christianity that charged at the British because they believed God would turn the bullets into water, and that they would not be harmed.

British memorial (left, with Pokot boys standing around it) and Christian memorial for the same incident as explained above.

Later this week I will have to post pictures of my little apartment in Kapenguria. I am staying in Michael's neighbor's spare room, which has it's own entrance...I don't think I've even met his neighbor yet just because there is no need to enter their home. The "apartment" is literally 20 feet from Michael's front door. It's nice to have a separate space of my own. Although, Nelly is staying with me. I found out today that she is actually game to be with me for the entirety of my trip, if I desire.

Nelly has been helpful in some regard...I think Michael must have told her to never let me out of her sight because in the first 24 hours or so of my arrival, she wouldn't so much as let me pee or shower by myself. Culturally speaking, I am sure this is much less awkward for her. When I remind myself that, it is less awkward for me as well.

If I'm not careful, I may just end up spoiled by the end of this trip, as she seems to have been waiting on me hand and foot. This made a bit more sense today when I found out she has been helping Michael's wife, Angelina, care for the four kids they have at home. But, still, she went through my suitcase without my knowledge and decided to wash a few of my garments (the only ones that were still clean), of which include my pajamas... So right now, my pajamas are hanging out on a clothes line flapping away in the very wild highland wind. I know Nelly's intentions are good, and I am trying to establish with her the need for her to communicate with me about my things and our living arrangement so her sincere kindness doesn't aggravate me in the future.

I have forgotten what it is like to be paired up with a new roommate!

9 comments:

  1. Amazing! Thanks for these pics, Rachel.
    - Marcus.

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  2. As I giggle out loud, I'm also giving thanks for Nelly! You must somehow pass along my appreciation for her and to Michael for watching out for you.
    My heart swells up to see you in the midst of such dear people living out life in such a hard place. Your photos tell an amazing story.
    Looking forward to your next posting.
    Much love to you,
    Mom

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  3. You're a real Pokot woman already

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  4. This is amazing Rachel. Hope the clothes come out ok. Love you. Aunt Michelle

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  5. You were at the equator? Good thing I got you that sunscreen!

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  6. Hey Rachel - Glad to hear about all of your adventures. Traveling in Africa is such a feat in and of itself, you'll never take getting from point A to point B for granted again! Also, I have seen the vehicle shaking trick across East Africa, and I am still not convinced that it works. Maybe you can add that to your research?? ;).

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  7. Hi Rachel--really fun to read of your adventures AND research. I love the picture you interviewing the Pokot warrior (former). It is difficult to "stay on task" when so much is swirling around you. But you are doing it.

    Hurray for Nelly. It is nice to have help with so much going on. Be patience with her and yourself. I love the comment about adjusting to a new roommate. It is so true.

    Harley

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  8. They also like to score in Kenya too! Booyah!

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