Photo Tour

Everyone seems to be enjoying photos more than anything else. So, for your viewing pleasure, here is a photo tour of my living quarters and the library I have frequented a lot this past week.

Right: Michael's house and car park. Left: My "apartment."

My apartment. During the day, everyone opens their door and hangs a sheer cloth in the doorway.

Inside my apartment. This is it. Bed, bedside stool, mosquito net, folding/camping chair and my luggage.

The bathroom.

The toilet. For the life of me, I have not been able to get the latch on this door to work...so Nelly has been holding it shut for me almost every time! That must be fun for her...

The shower. There is a hole, about 2 inches in diameter in the back, right corner that works as a drain. I bring about a gallon of water in a bucket in with me. The latch on this door works :)

The library: "District Information and Documentation," basically, all of the known archives concerning the Pokot. I even found a copy of a University of Minnesota student's dissertation from 1988!

Me cooking onions for spaghetti sauce. Michael requested that I make some American food for his family to try. Unfortunately, I decided to buy some tomato sauce at the Kitale market...that stuff is like a gel-like French salad dressing. Too bad. I did redeem myself this morning by making oatmeal with cinnamon, sugar, and raisins. That was a hit!

Fun fact: the item I have used the most from my first aid kit is Hydrocortisone. One day, I bumped a cactus; another day, I developed a small rash on my hand; and on another, I had a small pustule that itched on the top of my foot.

Whiteness

Before I begin, I must warn you that I will be making a number of generalizations in this post, and I will emphasize here that they are just that: generalizations; meaning, they do not apply to everyone.

I, like many other Americans, would like to believe we live in a post-racial society, where we are beyond discriminating or favoring people based on their ethnicity. Although the United States has made significant strides in the past century, I believe we still have a long way to go before we may consider ourselves "post-racial." Also, if I am to be successful in anthropology, it's time I become realistic about this social issue. Especially, since, I seem to be on the receiving end of a unique form of racism...

The day I conducted interviews in East Pokot, I received a wide variety of reactions to my presence from children who had never seen (but perhaps had heard about) white people. They would scream, cry, giggle, wave, hide behind their mothers or friends, or simply stand with their jaw dropped (one kid even dropped what he was carrying). It was not hard to notice that as we traveled farther away from Nairobi, the number of white people decreased. Here, in Kapenguria, I have seen only one other white person.

Reactions are not limited to children. Adults will also stare, or make comments about the "mzungu" (foreigner) in Swahili. I usually don't ask for a translation, but yesterday, Nelly told me one man could not believe I was carrying water on my head from the river along with her. Even Michael's family seems astounded when I insist on hand washing my own laundry, or bathing with a bucket of cold water like they do, rather than use Michael's connections at a nearby hotel to have hot water sprinkle from a faucet over my head.

There is so much attached to this concept of whiteness, another factor being wealth.

I was so beside myself the other day about this, that I called my friend and fellow board member, Nathan, who has visited Kenya a few times. He helped me see things a bit better from the Kenyan perspective. For instance, many people in Kenya are in "survival mode," living one day at a time, doing what they can to put food in their stomachs. As a person from the United States, I am perceived as a bottomless piggy bank.

Also, only a few people understand the concept of saving. Nathan advised me to not even try to explain what a budget or savings account is, because many of the people who are in survival mode will not understand how it is that I have this money but do not use it right now, in the present, for my needs (and their needs). They are opportunistic, rather than futuristic, doing the most they can do today to survive for as long as possible, because it is unknown what tomorrow will bring or not bring.

Yesterday was the first day I was explicitly asked for money or things by people who are more than strangers, who are friends of Michael's. One person asked for 100 shillings (about $1.50) to buy soap. Later, a girl knocked on the door of my apartment and asked if I could "assist her with drinking water" (I eventually gathered that she was asking to tap my supply of clean, store bought, bottled water). Then, at dinner, a man asked me "how many monies did it take for [me] to go to America from Nairobi?" and then if I would buy him a plane ticket to America.

In addition, I've conducted two interviews today that pleaded with me to support Daylight and tell people about it, because they realize education is the future and the way out of poverty, not understanding that I'm actually on their side, as a Daylight board member, and that my purpose on that board is to bring in more people to support Daylight. It's very exhausting and discouraging, as I feel I must explain or defend myself. Not to mention this all strays away from the main questions of my interview.

In general, it is hard for me to say no to people, but I know I cannot help everyone; my funds are limited too. It is still so frustrating to be in the midst of all this poverty and do nothing. I appreciate your thoughts and prayers as I experience these new challenges.

On a positive note! (I know I've been highlighting the negative a lot lately.)

I also visited Daylight Center and School yesterday. This truly was the highlight and joy of my day (even though I could not completely escape this issue of whiteness there either). Here are some pictures:

Michael suggested I bring candy to ensure no one would run away or cry!

Handing out soap to some very curious kids.

I assisted the kitchen staff by passing out porridge. You can see this kid still isn't sure about me!

High five! This started as a result of one kid coming up to me and waving at me only two inches away. So, I gave her a high five while saying "high five!" Well, then this happened...each of the kids wanted about 20 high fives. At another point in the day, they came running up to me, screaming "Hi Fi, Hi Fi!"

Visiting a classroom reviewing pronunciation of English vowel sounds.

Ground Breaking

Today, we visited the plot of land that will be the new home for Daylight Center and School. Not only am I here, in Kenya, doing research for my master's thesis, but as a Daylight board member, it is an opportunity to see for myself the strides Daylight is making in its community.

Currently, Daylight is renting space from a seminary in Kapenguria. But this only allows for classroom space, not for boarding children from the lowlands, many kilometers away. These children, along with orphaned children, are hosted by families in Kapenguria for now.

Daylight raised enough funds last fall to purchase 3 acres of the 12-acre plot of land we visited today, in order to relocate the school and begin building dormitories so that more children can attend Daylight.

I understand that my presence today was very important. The man who is selling the land is not convinced that Daylight will follow through as planned, and purchase the remaining 9 acres. Until he is convinced, he wants to measure the 3 acres purchased beginning at the far end of the land, farthest away from the entrance on the property. In the event that he is persuaded to sell the remaining 9 acres to someone else, Daylight would have no way of expanding its property to make more room for additional dormitories, classrooms, a cafeteria, or soccer field/play area.

My presence and reassurance today gave the man some confidence that the plans Michael has been proposing are more likely to happen. But it was communicated that purchasing another 3 or more acres would assist in the negotiations regarding where the measurements would start...from the main entrance, or from the far end of the property.

There are more people in Kenya than there is useable land. As a result, land is very expensive...about $5,000 per acre! 

Michael asked me to ceremoniously break ground on the land to further demonstrate and reinforce the promise that there is a whole board of directors back in the United States working to raise the funds for this project. 

Although my research has just barely begun, I am already noticing a pattern in people's response to my question about the main challenges their communities are facing: although drought, hunger, and medical care are paramount concerns in Pokot, most of my interviewees state that these are not the real issues, these are merely symptoms of a greater need for education. Education is the long-term solution.

I am so excited to be involved in Daylight, witnessing history being made through this movement of education to eradicate thirst, hunger, and illness and to empower people to serve their communities in a life changing way.

Learn more about Daylight.

Top 10

Well, I am finally in Kapenguria. We did end up staying one more night in East Pokot because an amazing, last minute opportunity sprang up on Saturday morning for us to go visit the village center and surrounding watering stations where the Pokot pastoralists water their goats and camels. Big, huge step with my anthropological research as a result. I wasn't expecting to interact with these herders until later on in my trip. Last night, we stayed again at Michael's friend's home, and it was the first night I've been able to sleep without interruption.

Without further ado, as promised, here are some photos taken between Friday (when we left Nairobi) and today (just before reaching Kapenguria).

Kenyans do love their soccer...

Fueling up the truck (by rocking it!) in order to fill it up as much as possible for the long road ahead.

Yeah, it's really hot.

Michael told the pastoralists that I am from the Eagle clan (since the Bald Eagle is the U.S.'s national bird). A lot of people took him seriously. One woman there was from the real Eagle clan of the Pokot. "We are sisters!" she said and gave me two big hugs.

The can I am holding was one of the containers used to scoop up water
from the wells and water the goats and camels. The can is from the U.S.
and originally held nourishing, vitamin-enriched vegetable meal.

Interviewing a former Pokot warrior.

This was apparently this Pokot warrior's first ever Coca Cola.

Michael and Peter in the Minnesota gear I brought them.

Peter sitting on a mass grave and Pokot memorial. In the 1950s, many people were killed after the British commissioner and army opened machine gun fire on a community of recent converts to African Christianity that charged at the British because they believed God would turn the bullets into water, and that they would not be harmed.

British memorial (left, with Pokot boys standing around it) and Christian memorial for the same incident as explained above.

Later this week I will have to post pictures of my little apartment in Kapenguria. I am staying in Michael's neighbor's spare room, which has it's own entrance...I don't think I've even met his neighbor yet just because there is no need to enter their home. The "apartment" is literally 20 feet from Michael's front door. It's nice to have a separate space of my own. Although, Nelly is staying with me. I found out today that she is actually game to be with me for the entirety of my trip, if I desire.

Nelly has been helpful in some regard...I think Michael must have told her to never let me out of her sight because in the first 24 hours or so of my arrival, she wouldn't so much as let me pee or shower by myself. Culturally speaking, I am sure this is much less awkward for her. When I remind myself that, it is less awkward for me as well.

If I'm not careful, I may just end up spoiled by the end of this trip, as she seems to have been waiting on me hand and foot. This made a bit more sense today when I found out she has been helping Michael's wife, Angelina, care for the four kids they have at home. But, still, she went through my suitcase without my knowledge and decided to wash a few of my garments (the only ones that were still clean), of which include my pajamas... So right now, my pajamas are hanging out on a clothes line flapping away in the very wild highland wind. I know Nelly's intentions are good, and I am trying to establish with her the need for her to communicate with me about my things and our living arrangement so her sincere kindness doesn't aggravate me in the future.

I have forgotten what it is like to be paired up with a new roommate!

Homesick

So I'm not sure what to say. I was planning to write about my arrival to Nairobi and talk about advertisements (billboards and commercials) that struck me...as the advertising in Nairobi is quite impressing (in the most literal way). Also, I was going to tell you about Nelly, the woman Michael brought to stay with me in Nairobi, and how I nearly gave her a heart attack with the bloody nose I got from all the dusty, dry air while riding around Nairobi. But today has been somewhat of an emotional day, as it was my first day to enter into Pokot land, and attempt to start my anthropological research, and to eat ugali.

I'm not sure right now if my stomach is churning from the ugali (which I really hope not), or from a combination of the heat, sun, failure with attempted research, and waking up at 5:30am this morning (after having intermittent sleep) to start this physically and emotionally draining day. I also haven't showered in two days, and I haven't washed my hair since the morning I left the States. ...I think this can be diagnosed as your standard homesickness. And in the case of my failed attempt to do research today, I think that may be attributed to the fact that I am strangely interesting to my subjects (not that it is strange they are interested, but that I am strange to them), "What is this Tylenol and hand sanetizer? And why does she refuse to eat goat meat?" I don't know how to politely return the questions back on them...especially when they keep using Swahili to talk to each other about me.

Although I am not sure exactly how to deal with my present situation, I have better ideas for it tomorrow. Also, I am only in East Pokot right now, not West Pokot (where the majority of my time is planned to be). I feel as if the questions I have prepared concerning religion would be best presented in the West Pokot environment due to the intended length of stay; other more general questions concerning decision-making processes, leadership, etc can be asked in most situations.

*Sigh* Ok, I feel better now. Again, I hope I don't get sick from any of the food I've eaten this evening, but my anxiety has settled down enough to let me know that my stomach is not upset (at least yet) from the food. By the way, ugali isn't bad! It reminds me of Cream of Wheat after it has been cooked and then let to dry, although, ugali is a corn-based food item.

Michael has been very helpful in telling me what food I should and should not eat since I arrived. Even though he, Nelly, and Peter (my welcome party) usually only eat one meal each day, he has seen to it that I have lunch and dinner in addition to morning chai. This evening, though, we are visiting a friend of Michael's in East Pokot, and out of sheer politeness, I had little choice but to eat regardless of how it would make me feel afterwards. ...Can I be called a true anthropologist now?

The plan is tentative, but Michael and I were discussing staying one or two nights, depending on what is available for us to do tomorrow. Based on my brief mention earlier of new ideas regarding how to use my current location and situation, I think I will encourage us to leave for West Pokot tomorrow, rather than stay two nights in East Pokot. I know much of what he is trying to cram into our to-do list is for my benefit, and I know he is very open to adjusting the plan as I make discoveries (even as small as the one I made earlier this evening).

Well, that's all for now. We took some great pictures today that I will post next chance I get. I'm sure those will be much more interesting and light hearted than what I've sorted out in real-time above.

T Minus 2 Hours

Well, I am sitting at my gate and will be boarding in about 90 minutes. Luke and I came to the airport really early, but it turned out for the best...

As I was checking in on those self-serve kiosks, I received an error on the screen stating to see a Delta representative and that I could not be checked in at this time. First I thought, "oh, I bet we just came too early" and the kiosks are programmed to only check in passengers who are departing within a certain time limit. Well, after five minutes of the representative making disturbing faces at her monitor, and then after ten minutes of her being on the phone, I finally received my boarding passes. It turned out that my connecting flight wasn't officially confirmed and the international help desk had to confirm it for me. I don't think I've ever been that calm in a situation like that before. This trip to Africa is already changing me, and I haven't even boarded the plane yet!

Thanks to all of you who received the last minute invite and attended my farewell party this past Sunday. Your show of support truly meant so much to me. It was supposed to be a short, quiet evening of dessert, wine, and conversation; and I ended up getting home at around 2:00am after doing a little karaoke. I did not expect to stay up that late, but again, it turned out to be for the better. I was so tired by the time I got off work on Monday that I took a two hour nap and then stayed up the entire night last night in order to start acclimating myself to the Kenya time zone.

This morning, I ran a few errands...post office, goodwill, DMV (as my license is going to expire while I am away). Then, Luke and I went to--my favorite--Wilde Roast, and had the BREAKFAST TACOS! Best choice for my last American meal before departing for Kenya!

Just an FYI, I suspended my cell phone service about an hour ago. So, if you try to leave a message or text me, I will not receive it....ever. Send me an email, post on Facebook, or comment on my blog if you want to reach me.

Finally, here is a picture of the two bags I will have while I am in Kenya. In addition to this, I am also bringing a bag over for Michael, as well as a second carry on of gifts for the kids at Daylight and various hosts and community leaders. But all I will be responsible for while I am there is the backpack and my carry-on sized piece of luggage.

T Minus 1 Weekend

This past week leading up to my departure has been a busy one.

Thank you Harley, Samuel, and Stephen for sharing your wisdom. Being that eight weeks is a very short time in which to do ethnographic research, I am so grateful for the time you all took to speak with me and share tips on how to focus my research. I have been physically packed and ready for this trip for a few weeks, but now I also feel better prepared mentally to carry out my academic purposes for going. My husband, Luke, has also been a big help: offering to run some of my errands for me.

Before and After

Today, I also had my hair cut by Andre at Andre Franca Studio. I decided to cut my hair really short so that I did not need to do it every day and because of how hot it is in Kenya. The temperatures right now are in the high 80s during the day, and mid 60s in the evening. Because Kenya is closer in proximity to the sun than we are in North America, I have been advised to wear sunblock, even underneath my clothing. As some may know from last year's Fourth of July weekend, I burn quite easily, and will consider such suggestions carefully.

Tomorrow, I will officially finish packing by cramming the surveys I've prepared into what space remains in my carry-on bag, and spray down my pants and long-sleeved clothing with insecticide. What fun!

Dedication

Cousins Rebekah and Natalie, me, and Granny.

Taken 12/27/2010.

I am dedicating this research trip to my grandmother, Elizabeth Lee Woodard, who passed away on January 29, 2011. She was always a source of great support for my education and academic endeavors.

Elizabeth had her fair share of traveling during her lifetime, and I feel as if I have inherited her love of experiencing new people and places. She was also strong in her Christian faith, and it is my hope that I will encounter people on my trip in Kenya who live out their religious convictions just as faithfully as she did each day.

With just over one week before I head to the airport, I have only a few more things to tend to before I am ready to go. Later this week, I am meeting with two of my former Anthropology professors from Bethel University. I value their wisdom and last-minute advice in how to do anthropological research, or what we call ethnography or field work. Specifically, I hope they can give me an estimate on how many copies I should print of the survey I have prepared to distribute! I will also be meeting with my advisor from the University of Minnesota; I trust he will help me keep the big picture of my thesis project in mind, as I am sure I will become interested in things during my travels that are not directly related to my thesis.

Lastly, I will be getting my hair cut next weekend! I plan to cut it quite short, so that it is one less thing I need to worry about while I am there. I will be sure to post a picture, although, I'm sure there will be a number of pictures posted during my trip that will feature the new do.